CAROLE JACKSON MEANT well. Back in the now-comically wayward 1980s, at least fashionably speaking, her book, “Color Me Beautiful” was a must-read. Women everywhere flocked to “get their colors done”—the seasonal palette from which they should never, ever stray—and promptly followed the process by chucking each tube of lipstick and shoulder-padded blazer that didn’t make the cut. The downside, of course, was with every new color consultation (because who could stop at one?) came a new set of hues, so one can only imagine the complete state of confusion in which the decade’s would-be fashionistas found themselves.
In today’s apparel sector, by comparison, color’s faddish reputation is slightly more relaxed. New trends crash like waves into the couture arena, and subsequently trickle down to the masses. While shades might vary more regularly, new colors on the whole often can find a home for years at a time as part of a general design direction, explained Christine Chow, director of membership for The Color Association of the United States, a color trend forecasting agency based in New York. “When you are really able to recognize … the inspirations behind your palettes, those don’t change because those reflect people’s mind-sets,” she maintained. “And the cultural mind-set doesn’t just swing back and forth every five minutes. It’s really being able to identify long-term cultural shifts so that’s what we work towards, we don’t really look at fads.”
A STUDY IN PSY-COLOR-GY
This dependence on social ideologies might explain the recent synergy between a color-coded movement that’s bubbling to the surface and fashion’s current direction. With the “Green Revolution” has come an emphasis on eco-friendly homes, cars and practices, and at the same time leaf, kelly and bottle green hues in stores (but more on that later). “The things we look at relate to ideas and feelings that are going on in the environment,” explained Chow. “Whether people are consciously aware of it or not, I think people are generally more politically aware and they’re feeling more serious because of that.” This earnestness reflects a shift from what was happening in post-9/11 America, when whimsy was the watchword for the escapism that was a big trend in both pop culture and fashion.
She’s quick to say, however, that this newfound interest in world affairs does not mean brights go away—simply that the industry is seeing these colors through different eyes. Now, mused Chow, “People are finding being sophisticated and being intelligent much more interesting. We’re seeing much more conceptual design.” What’s “in” in 2008 is less about color fads and more about things bordering on abstract—how hues make people feel.
SHADES OF MEANING
Read on for 2008’s starting lineup:
• Go the green mile. In keeping with the idea of color as a vehicle of awareness, Chow reported people’s perceptions of green as a fashionable hue have changed. Leafy greens, yellow greens and citrus tones will be big in ’08. But with this surge of freshness comes a dying out of such shades as camo and olive, said Robb Lucien and Nicole Pelissier of Los Angeles–based People’s Apparel, the edgy new kid on the promotional products block. “Over the past few years,” they say, “we have seen the military palette of colors come in and go out. … Neutral tones have become passé in this market with brighter colors coming in.”
• Sing the blues. “Blue has always been the most popular color in Western palettes, but it’s really going to be coming on strong for the next few years,” said Chow. The tones will soften to include sky and cornflower blues, and a resurgence of purple-y blues, such as periwinkle, also will occur. Plus, she added, rich indigo will anchor the palette as a new neutral.
• Discover precious metals. Even though metallics have been a bit of a fad in retail over the past few seasons, next year, their place in the mainstream becomes set in stone. Lucien and Pelissier affirmed, “Metallics will be a strong player even in the T-shirt market,” and, said Chow, now that people are “getting used to” metals for everyday wear, designers have gotten the go-ahead to incorporate them as primary colors with more subtle finishes. Look for blackened or patinated metals, brushed and hammered finishes, as well as bronze and copper in lieu of silver and gold.
• Turn on the neon lights. And finally, moving in to take the place of metals-as-accents are (surprise!) fluorescents. “But they’re going to be less harsh and less obnoxious than eighties neon,” Chow laughingly promised. Even Lucien and Pelissier dubbed their new favorite color “electric blue with a mineral wash.” The treatment removes the eye-attacking glow that so characterized neons of old, and instead imparts a less-aggressive, multitonal look that flatters everyone, they said. Along these lines, neon hues will be used more like punctuation marks, such as topstitching or embroidery, to give items a bit of a punch, as opposed to being a TKO.
AWARDS FOR SPECIAL EFFECTS
With new colors come new color innovations. And for companies looking to achieve a more fashion-friendly sensibility, specialty finishes and effects are a solid addition to the repertoire.
People’s Apparel, for one, has been securing its niche with new wash processes that help achieve a more vintage look, and as a byproduct, a softer garment. “We are always developing new techniques, but we currently use washes such as a mineral wash, potassium wash and a tea stain to create a unique product,” Lucien and Pelissier said. As a result, fabrics in a particular color reemerge looking slightly distressed and hues have more depth and variegation.
Chow also discussed bleaching as a way of lightening particular shades. “That seems to reveal layers of color,” she explained. Other techniques that will hit the market in ’08, Chow reported, include ombré—the graduation of one shade from light to dark in a single garment—and cross-dyeing—a process that involves different fibers being pattern woven into a fabric so that, post-dyeing, the threads saturate according to their dispersal. Voilà! Flat color gets its groove back.
