The secret’s out: Women’s apparel generates big business. According to the NPD Group, a global information company, total U.S. women’s apparel retail sales reached $116.4 billion in 2013, up 4 percent from 2012. That number has caught the attention of industry giant Nike and it’s tailoring its marketing messages accordingly. At press time, Nike launched its #BetterForIt campaign as a way to inspire women trying to reach their personal fitness goals. The company hopes this major advertising spend will turn its $5 billion women’s wear business into a $7 billion business by 2017.
But not everyone is operating on Nike’s level, or budget, and no one expects that. What is expected, however, is a basic understanding of what’s hot and how to sell it. Not sure where to start? Tsedenia Kiros, director of design for Charles River Apparel, Sharon, Mass., and Mark Seymour, vice president of sales and marketing for Next Level Apparel, Gardena, Calif., shared some insights on trends and the best practices for this growing market.
WHAT’S TRENDING NOW
Fashion is cyclical. Remember those rib and baby rib fabrics that everyone had to have? They’re out, Seymour said. “The current hot trend is toward soft fabrics with stretch and recovery,” he added.
And then there is fit. Oversized tees may be great for a lazy Sunday, but many women want figure-flattering pieces, with good length and realistic sizing. “We came out with a contemporary fit, which is a more generous cut in the size medium, especially in length, and took a full retail grade as we went up in sizes to give it a more retail feel,” Seymour said.
Kiros shared a trend that ties into lifestyle. “‘Athleisure’ is a hot trend in both men’s and women’s apparel that mixes a broad category of clothing like athletic apparel, loungewear and business casual, making it appropriate for everyday wear,” she explained. “This is not a trend that will dissipate anytime soon because it has such a strong appeal and creates a lifestyle aesthetic for the wearer.”
Popular retailers, like Lululemon, Athleta and Loft, have incorporated this look into their product lines, offering everything from designer leggings to cashmere wraps. Charles River Apparel has responded to the demand with a selection of yoga pieces, better sweaters, lightweight jackets and a cardigan wrap, Kiros said.
COLORING IN THE LINES
Pantone’s color of the year can be a good barometer for fashion industry color trends. The 2015 color of the year is Marsala, which Pantone describes as “a naturally robust and earthy wine red.” It’s a departure from Pantone’s brighter selections over the last five years (Turquoise, Honeysuckle, Tangerine Tango, Emerald and Radiant Orchid). Don’t expect this color to take over wardrobes anytime soon though. “It is a challenging color that is not able to translate easily into promotional products because it has not caught on in the retail market,” Kiros remarked.
So, what’s performing well? “What we still see are two things: that whole kind of mint family and a trend toward a more muted color T-shirt—cream, sand, silk, stone gray,” Seymour said.
Kiros agreed, and expanded on this point. “Mint is everywhere now from sportswear to high fashion in women’s apparel,” she said. “Gray in all hues provides a color matrix that everyone has gravitated to. Both men’s and women’s apparel are using different shades of charcoal, oxford and ash gray to ground their collections.
“You are also seeing a high demand from customers for garment-dyed apparel, where each piece is constructed and then dyed, which gives rich color saturation and beautiful mid-tones,” she continued.
THE PROBLEM WITH CROSSOVER STYLES
Nobody wants to be an afterthought, but that’s the kind of message distributors are sending to their female clients when they push a smaller version of the men’s style or any old style that matches. “Probably the biggest mistake that distributors make is assuming that you can first pick a men’s style, and then simply pick the women’s companion style afterwards,” Kiros said.
She went on to explain how promotional products previously catered to the men’s market, leaving little options for women. Now, it’s standard practice to offer women’s companion pieces. Kiros offered some advice. “Make your sizing chart as simple as possible. Add feminine style lines (e.g., curved princess seams) that offer shape for a more tailored look because this doesn’t alter the garment drastically and can still sit well with the men’s companion piece,” she instructed. “Give some styles/trends, like shrugs or wraps, a chance because most women have one on the back of their office chair.”
A GAME OF SALES
With so many different style trends, complex sizing demands and new cuts, selling women’s apparel can be intimidating for the uninitiated. The good news? A little research goes a long way. Seymour recommended giving options. Bring a basic example that captures what the customer requested and an additional piece that goes beyond the initial vision. “A customer had a challenging logo with lots of color and wanted a basic women’s crew tee. We suggested the 6610 CVC Crew made from a 60/40 cotton/poly blend using a soft-hand plastisol print,” Seymour recalled. “We also recommended the 6044 poly/cotton V made from a 65/35 poly/cotton blend matched with a sublimation print,” he said. “They chose the 6044 because they preferred the neckline and loved the soft-hand treatment.”
